English Country Dance Costumes

Here is a fine linen shift patterned after one in the Boston Museum of Fine Art.  The original owner lived from 1795 into the latter half of 1800.  This style is more typical for the early 1800’s.  

I adapted Sense and Sensibility’s shift pattern to include the typical triangular inserts in the skirt, and added the narrow ruffle at the sleeve, a typical decoration at this time.  The neckline is wide enough to tuck it in under the widest ballgown neckline.  The drawstring is made from twisted crochet cotton.

This garment is based on the Folkwear Empire dress pattern, I simply made the straps even more narrow, left off the sleeves, used the minimal amount of fabric in the bodice, closed up the back and had the drawstring tie at the front.  This way I can do it up tightly and really don’t need a corset.  However, anyone with more than B cups would need the corset.  Boning can be added if necessary (but does not replace the need for the corset for those more well endowed).   Jean Hunnisett gives instructions for doing this in her book Period Costumes for Stage and Screen (1800-), and so does Jenny Clancy of Sensibility patterns, although I believe this is a modern adaptation and not strictly period correct.

There are two drawstrings, one at the neckline which can adjust for the dress opening, and one at the waist, using stronger tape, for shaping.  The neckline drawstring holds the garment close over the shoulders and prevents it from showing in the dress neckline.  Of course the skirt could be wider, and have cording in it to help the skirt stand out for the fashions after 1814 or so.  You could also add short sleeves so that you can protect delicate fabrics from sweat and body oils.  It would function like a shift, reducing the number of layers for dancers who wish to stay cool! …….and can be made from a washable fabric.

 Here is a pink acetate slip that I made in much the same way, adding cording (various diameters of string and rope) to the hem to help the skirt of my purple Empire dress dress stand out a bit.  Corded petticoats could be stiff almost all the way up for the most extreme shapes, as in the 1820’s and 30’s (and in much earlier times as well).  I like this colour, because the straps are not so obvious if they creep out a bit at the neckline.  However, the drawstrings keep them in place, especially if the bodice fits a bit snugly, as in my white slip above.

Hello, you have reached the blog of Lynn Macintyre. This is where you can find my stories about creating costumes for English Country Dance. Please comment, especially if you have an interest in historic construction, or contact me if you would like a gown made for you. More to come……!