1828 Lilac and beige ball gown
This is the first romantic period gown I have made. I used Nancy Bradfield’s book a great deal in planning it, and adapted an existing pattern based on the patterns in Jean Hunnisett’s book Period Costume for Stage and Screen, 1800-1909. Nancy Bradfield features a silk tartan dress with long sleeves from about 1828, and I decided to make an evening dress using my tartan fabric.
I cut the bodice on the diagonal, made the wide neckline (although the sleeve opening is more vertical than in the 30’s), and decorated it with a narrow bertha of cream satin with a lace edging. Underneath the bertha the neckline is decorated with two rows of piping, one bias tartan and one lilac contrast. I like it better with the bertha covering this contrast piping, but it could be worn without the bertha. The large sleeves were taken from Janet Arnolds patterns for dresses of this time period, and were lined with net to hold their shape. They are bound with bias tartan with a second piping of contrast lilac, and there is piping at the sleeve head. The back closes with hook and thread eyes, although I wish I had made it front opening……as it turned out I needed to put in a front seam (as in the dress in Nancy Bradfield’s book) and I could have had a side front placket in the dress……hindsight is a wonderful thing! (and it would have been less period correct). You can see how effective the diagonal cut is with a closer look at the back bodice in particular. This was a common way to creat interest in design at this time.
The skirt is pleated with the pleats facing forward to an inverted pleat centre front, and the back 6 inches are cartridge pleated on each side of the placket. At the moment I have grosgrain ribbon to match tying the back waistband, but plan to put a self fabric bow with hooks and eyes as in Nancy Bradfield’s example. The hem is padded, with two roleaux, one tartan bias, and one lilac contrast. I wore it with my full Victorian petticoat, and it has a nice shape.
May 14th, 2010 at 01:28
I’m researching a Mary Somerville (scientist from 1800s) steampunk (where I’ll wear it mostly) outfit and I know she liked English Country Dancing, so I’m delighted to see this post. I guess I’ll also wear it to the Playford Ball for some good old-fashioned dancing!
June 28th, 2010 at 05:55
Thank you so much for posting pictures of your beautiful dresses!
December 16th, 2010 at 17:11
this is amazing dance costume, i just love the color of the dress, i must buy the dress like this for my wife for coming Christmas. thanks for such anice blog.
January 17th, 2011 at 09:23
Absolutely beautiful. Took my breath away when I fist saw it!
February 27th, 2011 at 19:18
Thanks for your comments, I apologize, my contact info was out of date and I did not know you had visited! I’m so glad you like my creations!
November 16th, 2011 at 06:49
If Christine sees this, my reply to your email bounced, it looks like it was blocked as span….go figure! What I said was that I made the dress up from a number of sources, mainly Nancy Bradfield’s book Costume in Detail. You could try Sensibility.com for the pattern for her Romantic gown. Be sure to put net in the sleeves to give them some shape. Good luck, and I am happy to hear of someone passing on the delight of English Country Dance!