Tan silk twill dress
This dress was designed from an illustration by Mary Gardiner in Cunnington’s book, English Women’s Clothing in the Nineteenth Century. I am particularly interested in front opening gowns, since it is hard for a single person to don dresses that fasten up at the back, and I am sure that not everyone in those days (and certainly in these days!) had personal maids! All the exterior finishing is by hand.
I had found some silk twill, another online bargain, and had been thinking about this design for some time. An occasion arose (a talk to the JASNA chapter in London, ON) which gave me a deadline, and so I got busy. The silk was a very pale creamy yellow, not very interesting, so I decided to dye it with tea. I used many teabags in the largest pot I had, and simmered it for 20 min or so. It came out fairly even, and there were only a few spots I had to avoid during cutting.
I started with Sense & Sensibility’s crossover bodice, but made the opening in the centre front, and used the normal skirt pattern, attaching a band and ties to the skirt front. I had been experimenting with fine cotton lace crochet, and had some pieces that I thought would do. I decided not to insert the lace, but apply it to the surface, easier to manage, and also did not do all the insertions that Cunnington shows. I experimented with dorset thread buttons, often found on dresses of this time, and found I could make 1/2 inch ones on some small jewellery rings I found. For the sleeves, I made only one tie, and edged the sleeve end with a crochet trim. The dress has a slight train, as I had just enough fabric for this.
Front drawstring behind buttons. It was not clear from the illustration in Cunnington how the bodice was shaped and this was my solution, as seen on other front opening dresses of this time.
Sleeve detail and bodice front.
The apron front ties over the bodice at the gathering line, and would be better with some hooks and eyes to keep it from slipping down. The ties have carrier just under the arm, and could have two more at centre back, but it is not completely necessary.
Closeup of buttons and lace.
Side view of full dress
Back view.
I wore this hat and the dark green spencer with this dress.
